Pioneering Fashion Icon, Lady Diana Was Ahead of Her Time in 1983
© Bertrand-Hillion Marie-Paola/ABACA
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, trends come and go in cycles. A style from about two decades ago is making a comeback, with data analysts from top fashion analytics firms like Style Analytics reporting a significant 113% increase in searches by 2025.
This fashion obsession isn’t new. Back in the early 2000s, fashion enthusiasts picked up this jacket at markets, flea markets, or thrift stores for less than ten euros. Its dress version, known as “Cheongsam” or “Qipao,” was favored by celebrities like Nicole Kidman and Kate Moss.
Characterized by its high, structured “Mandarin collar,” unique “Pankou” or “frog buttons,” and a sleek satin finish suitable for grand ceremonies, the Tangzhuang jacket—mistakenly referred to as the “Mandarin jacket” in popular culture—is now gaining popularity in the global fashion scene. Even back in December 1983, Lady Diana was seen wearing a grey coat adorned with this traditional detail during a visit in Hampshire, Great Britain.
Just a few days ago, Hypebeast headlined, “Pankou buttons are everywhere and ruling the scene.” This resurgence is partly due to the sports apparel giant adidas. For the Lunar New Year 2025, the German brand embraced fashion globalization by launching, exclusively in the Asian market, its iconic track jacket enhanced with the distinctive Pankou buttons of Chinese culture.
Instagram Posts Spark Global Fashion Frenzy
On social media, the jacket caused quite a stir among fashionistas: TikTok and Instagram posts showcasing the jacket spread rapidly, fueling envy among French fashion lovers upset that it wasn’t available in their region. However, there’s good news for those fashion-forward French, as the jacket has been available since January 2026 in select Parisian stores of the brand.
If cultural appropriation is an issue that activists continue to address to educate both novice and seasoned fashion enthusiasts about the Tang jacket, you can opt to purchase authentic pieces directly from the Chinese community found in thrift stores.
Alternatively, support brands that acknowledge the origin community and/or use correct terminology to describe this highly sought-after piece. Can’t wait to see you wear it in 2026!
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Olivia Martinez is the Fashion Editor at Lady and The Track, bringing over seven years of experience in the fashion industry. With a background in fashion design and styling, Olivia has worked with top fashion brands and magazines. Her keen eye for trends and styling tips helps readers stay ahead of the fashion curve. Whether she’s covering runway shows or street style, Olivia ensures that Lady and The Track readers are always in the know when it comes to the latest in fashion.